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~ 1948 Supro Lap Steel Refurbishment ~ Page 13; Gluing fretboard to neck: |
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Masking around the exact edge of the old fretboard, to protect the body from any glue squeeze-out that can be easily cleaned up on the masking tape, by using a well dampened rag before the glue sets; Or by good craftsmanship / thinking by removing the tape with dried glue run-out on it once the glue has set. |
Titebond II waterproof exterior glue is an excellent water based glue for permanant guitar repairs. Since I am deliberately applying the glue to masking tape so the fretboard can be removed for any future contingency, the glue will be strong and permanant on the tape but the tape will release if needed. Franklin white glue is also excellent and common in permanant guitar repairs. Franklin liquied non-potting hide glue is excellent for reversible repairs, as hide glue will release with hot water or steam or a hot blade invaded upon the glue. |
Carpentry shims are cut remarkably exact, allowing for adjustable thickness used in pairs. I know my workbench is perfectly level, so no need to check that. Here I am checking for matching thicknesses and lateral balance of the masking tape surfaces before applying glue. I already checked level with a small bubble level. Although only 1 set of shims at each end of the fretboard are used during this process; 2 sets of shims at each end of the fretboard will be used as 4 articulating feet for applying pressure to the fretboard, as shown further below. |
Here I am still testing the weight jig I have in mind before applying glue. Better to know that the jig will work well before applying glue than after applying glue ! I leave some of the paper towel protector short of covering the entire fretboard on both ends, ...so that I can double-check the alignment of both ends of the fretboard before and after weights are set upon the shims feet. Some surfaces / pieces will float and slide on wet glue and thus provisions made to be able to see that happen if it does, and realign the pieces as the glue sets. |
Still testing the jig without glue; Exact same-size wood bridge pieces span the shims feet, and a weight of the proper weight and size is selected to apply gravity pressure. This bridged jig will articulate flat and even pressure upon the shims feet and fretboard better than a single piece of wood used as a foot. |
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The concrete block is clean; It's just stained from doing many jobs around the shop. Old soldiers' marks deserve respect ! |
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Seeing that the weight-clamp jig works, how it fits, and no gliche surprises; The jig is removed. An even coat of glue is applied to the masking tape on the old fretboard, using a flat artists brush about 1/2" wide. The glue is applied about 1/32 of an inch thick. The artists brush is shook out in water when any glue drag is felt on the brush; Which keeps the brush maleable to spread the glue evenly, and to carry some water onto the glue to keep it flowing well during brushing down to an even surface. White glues don't have a long working time so good planning & thinking is neccessary. Practice on some other similar surface if not up to speed in applying nice even coats of glue in a rather short time. I apply the glue coat to leave about 1/4" dry margin not glued around all edges, so that when the glue squeezes from the weight clamp the glue will spread to that 1/4" dry margin and hopefully not beyond (which would require repeated wipe ups with well dampened paper towels, with the weight clamp in place, and while the glue is still wet, until the glue over-run is cleaned off; ....or after the glue dries would require some fine detailed craft work removing any unsightly dry glue showing under the edge of the fretboard when the boo-boo masking tape is removed. I then set the new fretboard onto the glue and align it exactly. Then I build the weight-clamp jig again, watching that the fretboard remains exactly aligned or exactly realigned if the fretboard wants to slide on the fresh glue. As I type this text the new fretboard is glued to the body and curing under the weight clamp jig. I allow the glue to set for approximately 48 hours before removing the weight clamp jig and the outer perimeter protective masking. |
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Here is the glue dried in it's can. Notice the significant difference in thickness between the fresh glue above and the dried glue below. Also notice the amber tint to it translucense; It should not be used for jobs that require crystal clear visible glue; And any over-run of this glue on a visible surface will be visible. |
