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~ 1948 Supro Lap Steel Refurbishment ~ Page 9; Swapping Out Electronics Assembly Cont'd: |
I insert the cord end into the plug and screw the donut connector to the center lug. The fuzz of the center nylon insulators will melt and seal those insulators when the next soldering heat is applied. |
Compare with the original soldering. |
I jig the plug and cord in the soldering jig, bending the coil up against the plugs rear end ground ring so that the previous solding work will face upwards to watch while soldering the anti-stress coil to the ground ring, as shown as this page progresses. |
I heat the grounding ring with the soldering gun and place the solder onto the coil that was already tinned and fluxed when it was removed. I push more than a normal joint of solder into the work as the coil and ground shield under it soak up the solder. I watch the exposed bit of the ground shield and remove the heat as soon as I see it's tinning flash. |
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Soldering done; Just like new. Super good bullet proof ground and the anti-stress coil anchored solid. File down any excess solder on the rear ground ring that might interfere with the cap sleeve going on easily. |
I screw the sleeve on to keep out brass dust from emorying the shaft clean. |
I wipe the shaft with a rag damp with catalytic penetrating oil (PB Blaster), then very lightly sand the shaft sparingly with #400 oil-proof sandpaper. This cuts through oxidation and removes it easily. I wipe the work clean with a clean rag. Paper towels work too for wiping damp oil onto and off of the shaft. |
I wipe the shaft again with the rag damp with catalytic penetrating oil, then buff the shaft with oil proof emory cloth. |
Now I wipe the cap sleeve with a rag moistened with Ace Hardware's Lub-E aerosol light oil. It will replenish oils in the plastic that have evoporated out. Now it looks like new as well. |
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