Bridge is working out even better than previous assessments; Lower height, lower neck angle. A few different / better bolts and washers acquired tommorrow (later today) will make it even better.
Archive and future reference: Tuners clean up and lithium lube.
The tuners are removed by removing their 3 mounting screws. The casing halves are held reasonbly tight together during removal because the mounting screws are all that's holding them together; Otherwise the casings can split open and parts fall out at an un-opportune time / spot.
Tuners are cleaned, then lithium grease is applied in a moderate blob in one spot and coated onto the worm-gear threads with a toothpick, making sure the grease is worked into the threads.
The nylon dust cover inserts are set at an angle in the bottom casing half so the top casing half will go on without resistance from the dust covers.
The top casing half is lowered into place by holding it at just enough slight longitudinal angle for each post to enter it's hole just before the adjoining post. This allows the top casing to be moved slightly to align each post with it's hole in sequence while the ones already inserted hold in their holes.
Rubber bands are put around the ends of the casing to hold the quite loose assembly together while the dust covers are tapped into place, and any stray bits of lithium grease wiped off the casings. The assembly is then mounted onto the guitar. The mounting screws are screwed into the headstock just short of binding the rubber bands, then the rubber bands are cut and removed before screwing the mounting screws up snug. Over-tightening the mounting screws can bend the top half of the casing.
Probably be able to mend this ding and make it minimally noticeable, ...by camouflauging the differences in paint age with faux checking.
Here's giving it a try anyway, before going to bed and letting the paint "cook". Foil protects neck from paint-drying sun lamp.
Wrench to snug-up the loose nuts in my skull before going to bed.
Nylon dust covers.
A cardboard jig is made to bridge the casing so the string shafts / gears can be stood up in the casing, while the finger shafts / gears are supported horizontally in place, and allows the upper casing to be slid down over the string shafts for reassembly. The casings get the finger shafts first, then the string shafts are stood in their holes to mesh their spider gear with the finger shafts worm gears; As seen in the 3 pictures above-left, left, and lower left.
Verticle profile of cardboard jig:
Uh-oh, ......I forget which end of the guitar the tuners go on.........................