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PLEASE NOTE: These webpages are under construction and their meanings incongruent until finished. |
Stringing one of the dupler strings up through the ball-end receiver holes under the bridge and through the saddle block passage for the string. |
Unroll the string and then re-roll it about 6" from the end. Then warp a curl in the end of the string by drawing a thumbnail across the end with curling tension. The curl works best if 90 degrees from the plane of the roll. |
Push the saddle block back with a thumb to expose the hole in the bridge plate through the saddle block's large slot for that purpose. The Saddle block can also be drawn rearward for this purpose by using an allen wrench in the fore-aft adjustment screw (In the picture below you can see the screw drawn back by the thumb pushing the saddle block rearward). The saddle blocks are easy to move with light gauge strings installed; But it might take loosening the block's partner spanish string if it's heavier gauge. |
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Slip the string under the bridge plate with the curl upwards to feel for it's bridge plate hole. The tension of the curl will make it go right into the hole. This is not difficult at all to do. You can view down through the saddle block. |
Grasp the free end of the string before unrolling the string and pulling it through the block and proceeding with the stringing in normal manners. Make sure the ball end wrapping has cleared the bridge plate hole and that the ball end is seated on the hole. |
Go to Next Page: The Scorpion Strung |
The spanish strings feed through the their ball-end holes in the back of the plate. |
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